I have been here before - at Denali National Park, home of Mt. McKinley, tallest mountain in North America. I came here twice in 2003: once with my friend Rob in March (the park was closed) and once with my sons Rollin and James in early June. In June I saw lots of wildlife but the park was dry, dusty, and inhospitable. This trip the park is a riot of fall colors - but no wildlife to be seen. We drove 30 miles in the park (as far as private vehicles can go - the off-season limited tours were packed): 15 miles in, and then back out. Stunning valley and mountain views but we only saw one bird. No bison, caribou, moose, elk, wolves or even squirrels!